Year and Month | February, 2013 (23rd 24th, and 25th) |
Number of Days | Three Day Trip |
Crew | 2 (Myself Driving, my wife) |
Accommodation | Nilmini Rest Kataragama |
Transport | Lite Ace van |
Activities | To see some of the Archeological Buddhist and historical sites unknown to and normally not visited by most travelers |
Weather | Fine |
Route | Colombo -> Awissawella -> ratnapura -> Udawalawe -> Lunugam vehere -> Thissamaharama -> Kataragama and return Katargama Ambalantota -> Nonagama -> Embilipitiya -> Ratnapura -> Colombo |
Tips, Notes and Special remark |
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Author | Soysa |
Comments | Discuss this trip report, provide feedback or make suggestions at Lakdasun Forum on the thread |
Places Visited
- The Ruhunu Kingdom
- The Tomb of Pussadeva
- Menik Vehera Dagaba
- Ethabendigala stone pillar inscription
- Yatala Vihara dagaba
- Sandagiri dagaba
- Sandagiri Godella Shrine Complex
- Kataragama kiri vehera and dewalaya
- The Thissamaharama dagaba
- Pashchimarama Rajamaha Viharaya
- The Godawaya harbor
- Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara
- Theraputthabhaya dagaba
- Giri Handu Viharaya
- Ramba Viharaya Complex

Map of Sri Lanka showing the demarcation of the ancient Ruhuna
(Curtsey web of Rhuhunu SanskruthikaMandalaya) – Click Image to Enlarge
Having following the Television series of the “Maha Sancharakaya” of Mr. Jackson Anthony we both decided to visit some of these historical sites on a visit to Kataragama on the long weekend of 23th to 25rg February 2013.
The Ruhunu Kingdom was a provincial principality, came to focus only when King Detu Gamunu defeating King Elara and unifying the country in the early period of the Anuradhapura Kingdom.
King Vijaya the first king according to “Mahavamsa” rid himself of Kuweni and brought a princess from the South Indian city of Madura and ceremoniously crowned himself King and the princess, the Queen of Lanka.After 38 years of reign in the country and after the demise of the childless King Vijaya, his nephew, Prince Panduvasudeva, the son of his brother Sumitta came to the country and took over the kingdom and ruled from Upatissa Nuwara.He got married to Baddakahchana, a Kastriya Princess from the Sakya clan, and a relative of the Lord Gauthama Buddha.
Six of her brothers accompanied her, named Rohana, Rama, Uruwela, Anuradha, Vijiha and Dighayu. These brothers, with the blessings of King moved out and built their own settlements. Where Anuradha, the brother of Queen Baddakahchana settled, became Anuradhapura, the city that later became the seat of the Kings of the Sinhalese for more than 14 centuries.
About this time also, the country was divided into three provinces of which were I. Pihiti Rata or Raja Rata 2. Maya Rata 3. Ruhunu Rata, while the king reigned at Anuradhapura. Ruhunu and Maya reigned under two sub-kings who were invariably brothers or sons of the king. Since the Sinhalese kings were aware of the needs of the people whose main occupation was agriculture, they, with the advice and guidance of the Maha Sangha, developed the country, giving pride of place to agriculture.
During the period of rule by the Tamil King Elara who ruled from Anuradhapura, the capital of Raja Rata, the two Sub-Divisions of the Island Maya Rata and Ruhuna to the South East were administered by Sub-Kings who were loyal subjects and supporters of the supreme Monarch. At the time Elara ruled at Anuradhapura, Kelani Tissa was king of Maya Rata and Kavan Tissa was king of Ruhuna.
Earlier when King Devanampiyathissa was ruling from Anuradhapura his queen wanted to kill her brother in law Mahanaga in order to give the crown to her son and tried to poison the crown prince ( brother of King Devanampiyathissa ) realizing that his life is in danger Mahanaga left Anuradapura to the Ruhuna.and from there it was another clan was established for the kingship in Ruhuna.
Mahanaga who established a local sovereignty at Magama now Thissamaharama devoted his time to religion. The Tissa Wewa was constructed by him. He was succeeded, at his death, by his son Yatalaka Tissa who fixed his Capital at Kelaniya and built the Kelaniya Dagaba. On the death, Yakalaka Tissa was succeeded by his son, Gotabhaya, who went to Magama again to reign at his grandfather’s capital, leaving a Kshatriya by the name of Kelani Tissa, to reign at Kelaniya.
Son of Gotabhaya King Kawanthissa succeeded his father on his death at Magama. He built many edifices such as Tissa Maha Vihara and the Dighavapi Tank. Neither of them even contemplated war against Elara at Anuradhapura as they believed he was too powerful to be confronted and defeated. But King Kawanthissa built the Rohana Kingdom strongly. King Detugemunu who was the eldest son of King Kawanthissa defeated the Chola king Elara & united Sri Lanka under one government.
The Kingdom of Ruhuna became the major kingdom on the island after a South Indian invasion by Rajaraja I of the Chola kingdom.
We travelled from Colombo via Avissawella, Ratnapura Udawalawe , Debarawewa Thissamaharama and to Kataragama.
At Colambage ara we visited the tomb of Pussadeva a General of Detu Gamunu’s army.
The Tomb of Pussadeva
Pussadeva was one of the ten great warrior generals of Detugamunu’s army. It is said that Pussadeva went to his temple in his village and blew a conch shell so loudly that people were astonished. The sound was powerful as a thunderbolt and some people were terrified. Other than the skill of blowing shells, Pussadeva was a skilled archer. He could hit a target from the light of lightening. King heard of him and admitted to the service
Arriving in Thissamaharama the first visit was to the Menik Vehera Dagaba on the road side.
Menik Vehera is not large in size. It was restored in 1894 keeping to the original shape. This stupa is also attributed to King Mahanaga. Some archeologists believe that it was constructed by King Dutugemunu.
In 1882, Governor Robert Longden had granted the land of the temple to Rev. Tangalle Sri Jinaratana, who began the restoration of the stupa and the construction of buildings for a temple. This activity would have destroyed much of the archaeological evidence..
As at Yatala, there are clusters of pillars and ruins of brick walls around Manik Viharaya. Many of the ruins are on privately owned lands. In some places, pillars have been used for construction work while in other places there used for washing of clothes and for bridges and doorsteps.
Around this temple, there are many stone pillar bases and other architectural remains of buildings. . Many of the ruins are on privately owned lands. In some places, pillars have been used for construction work while in other places there used for washing of clothes and for bridges and doorsteps.
Ethabendigala stone pillar inscription
In the land next to the dagaoba the above stone inscription was seen protected by a roof and it is mentioned that “a village with two categories of revenue was granted to the vihara by Rohanika Gemunu Abaya son of king Gemunu abaya and grandson of King Devanampiyathissa”.
A lone stone pillar stand at the left side of the stone inscription. Legend has it that King Dutugemunu tethered his famous elephant ‘Kadol’ at this pillar. It certainly is large and strong enough to retain an elephant.
Close to Menik vihara dagoba is the Yatala Vihara dagaba
Yatala Dagaba is believed to be built by regional king Mahanaga in the 3rd century BC on the grounds which his queen delivered a son. This dagaba has been identified as Mani Chethiya and Yattalaya in various historical documents. As mentioned before he was running away from Anuradhapura when his queen gave birth to the son here. It is not known what was enshrined in this dagaba but a large number of relic caskets have been discovered.
This Dagaba was completely restored and a small opening has been left to observe the different phases of construction. The restoration work of the Yatala dagaba commenced in 1883 AD. It had taken over a century to complete the restoration.
It is not known what was enshrined in this stupa but a large number of relic caskets have been discovered in the stupa. There is an Archeology museum next to the dagaba and large number of artifacts are seen there.
Ruins surrounding the dagaba site and at the museum
Our next stop was Sandagiri dagaba
According to the Maha Vamsa, when the Sri Maha Bodhi was brought to Sri Lanka by Theiree Sangamitta, members of the ‘Kshethiya’ clan of ‘Chandana Grama’ was present at Anuradhapura taking part of the celebrations. It is now accepted that the ‘Chandana Grama’ is the area now known as Sandagiriya in the south part of the country.
When Emperor Asoka sent various relics as gifts to the Sri Lankan king Devanampiyathissa (250-210 BC) and it is believed that they were handed over to his brother Mahanaga who was a regional king in the Ruhuna.
It is said that the king Mahanaga built Sanadagiri Stupa enshrining these relics and a rare conch shell in the 3rd century BC. This shell has been later enshrined in the Tissamaharama Dagaba. Therefore this stupa is believed to be the oldest Dagaba in the southern part of the country. Nearby inscriptions records land donations to this temple by the Kings Bathikabhaya and Vasaba. The stupa lies east to the Tissamaharama Dagaba in Tissamaharamaya.
The temple is built on 200×200 feet platform. The floor is tiled with bricks. Only about 1/2 of the stupa remains today. The circumference of the stupa is 700 feet..
It has flower altars at the four cardinal points and on the north side stone pillars are found.
Close to SandaGiri dagaba is the Sandagiri Godella Shrine Complex
Sandagirigodella lying about 1 km away from the Tissamaharama Vihara which also lies close to the ancient Sandagiri dagaba overlooking Tissamaharama Vihara.
At the entrance to the site is a stone inscription now preserved with a roofing cover.
At the entrance to this Sandagirigodella site stands a mass of ruins in stone. Some standing monolithic Stone pillars.
There is a well preserved Korawakkagala, (balustrade) having a plain moonstone . The unique carving on one side of the balustrade is that of a figure of an elephant (in standing pose), well conspicuous to the naked eye flanked by two guard stones.
Since it was late evening we left for Kataragama.
Since Kataragama is a well-known and mostly visited I was not keen in taking many Photos, but thought of giving a historical background of the significance of Kataragama as a Singhalese. We worship the Kiri vehera dagaba and Kataragama god as a Sinhala provincial King who has been elevated to a god. The Bo Tree behind the devalaya was brought there as a sapling from Anuradhapura during the third century B.C. stands as a giant, witnessing the changes that had taken place through centuries.
According to Buddhist tradition God Kataragama is none other than King Mahasena who worshipped and respected the God Kihiri Vehera (Kiri Vehera) and the great Bo tree. He is one of the four gods, the guardians of Sri Lanka and a God in Buddhism. Mahavamsa projects that the Lord Buddha, on His third visit to Sri Lanka, arrived at ‘Kajaragama’and preached Dhamma to King Mahasena and his royalties at the royal park of Kihiri trees. Today the Kiri Vehera derives its name from the royal park of ‘Kihiri Trees’ that later the dagaba (Kiri Vehera). It is believed that the king became respected as a god after his death and Mahasen Devale was erected in honour of him.
According to one Hindu beliefs the birth and life of God of Kataragama is that, a youth named ‘Kandasami’ (Kanda Kumara) who came from India, had been leading an ascetic life in the mountainous jungle near Menik Ganga (the present area surrounding ‘Wedihiti Kanda’).
He is popularly known to have been married to two ladies namely ‘Thevaniamma (an Indian lady) and Valliamma (a Sri Lankan farmer lady).
The other Hindu belief is that a spy master called Kadira of King Elara. Kadira is said to have operated 6 spy rings again sub divided in to 12 groups and based him in the Kataragama area. It was these groups which later were transformed in to six heads and 12 arms of the Kataragama Deviyo. Kadira was known as the “Kadira Deviyo” who later became Kataragama Deviyo. After the defeat of Elara he became a principle benefactor and earned respect from the local Singhalese people who deityfied him after his death. But the Tamils in Kataragama never accepted him as a deity and ignored him. Those Tamils who worshipped at the shrine introduced their own god Skanda Kumar as the reigning deity of this shrine.
Returning the next day we visited the Thissamaharama dagaba but do not like to elaborate as is a regular site vided by all Buddhists.
Returning the next day we visited the Thissamaharama dagaba but do not like to elaborate as is a regular site vided by all Buddhists.
Coming back to Thissa we visited the Debarawewa Pashchimarama Rajamaha Viharaya.
This temple is situated on the bank of Kirindi Oya, by the side of the Weerawila-deberawewa main road. Construction of this temple is attributed to King Mahanaga of the 3 rd century BC. This was an important temple, very near the capital city of Ruhuna , which went into obscurity with the change of the capital during the 12th century. It was under repairs when we went there. The pillars left at this temple are all that remains to indicate the structures, which were there for religious purposes.
Leaving Thissamaharama we toured the most interesting place of the Godawaya habour and the river mouth of the Walawe the point it meets the sea. The habour is near the mouth of the river.
The Godawaya harbour
Godavaya is located in Ambalamtota. Sri Lankan and German archaeologists excavate the old Kingdom of Ruhuna, gathering evidence of its glorious past.
In ancient times, Sri Lanka was heavily involved in the sea trade and exported dark red garnets. Up to the 7th century AD, these semi-precious stones were found as burial objects as far away as European graves. New research has now revealed that most of those garnets were from India and Sri Lanka. Spices were also exported from the island. The dig has uncovered Sassanian (Persian) and Chinese pottery as well as Roman coins.
Ships from the East carrying silk from China exchanged their commodities with merchandise from the West in the transit harbor of Godavaya, as trade ships from both directions usually did not go farther than Sri Lanka. Therefore, the Kingdom of Ruhuna played an important role as a trade center in early East-West trade. Godavaya was active in sea trade up until the 6th century AD. Along with trade items from Arabia and China, local articles of trade arrived via the local river.
The harbor town of Godavaya is mentioned in the Mahawamsa’s chapter on “The 12 Kings”. Even in the 6th century AD, Sri Lanka is referred to as an important sea trade centre on the Silk Route. Sri Lanka is also mentioned in The Periplus Maris Erythraei, a guide to trade on the Red Sea and India, written by an author in Alexandria, supposed around 40 AD.
The settlement of Godapavata Pattana, sandwiched on the peninsula between the Walawe River’s inland harbor and the sea harbor in the bay of Godavaya. A landing jetty constructed of stone pillars up to 3.50 meters high was part of the ancient harbor. While doing an underwater survey, the excavation team found one of the four ancient stone anchors discovered so far in Sri Lanka, the other three being found in Galle.
On top of the rock overlooking the entire area was the Gottapabbatha monastery, which dates back to the 2nd century AD. On the west side of the monastery an elevated ancient image house (Buddhu gedera) and a chapter house (Dharma salawa) have been excavated.
Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara
Gotha Pabbatha Rajamaha Vihara is situated on rocky outcrop near the mouth of the Walawe River in Godawaya which is a small fishing hamlet located between Ambalantota and Hamantota. The temple believed to have been built by Regional king Gotabaya (King Kavanthissa’s father) in the 2nd centaury BC. Godawaya is a ancient shipping port active as far as 2nd centaury BC. The temple is also believed to be have been used as the administrative centre of this port.
An inscription found in the vicinity of the temple records that a later king decreed that the taxes from the Port of Godavaya be dedicated to the temple.
Historians have been especially interested in the Customs Building, located on the east side of the ancient monastery, which was decorated with ornaments showing an elephant placing his trunk in lotus flowers. Normally, only the King was allowed to collect taxes. In Godavaya, the tax fees were donated to the temple for its maintenance. Clay seals bearing the emblem of a lion were used to seal goods and cargo as proof that the customs duty was paid.
Several Roman coins, beads, bangles, bricks showing guild marks in the shape of an O, a huge selection of pottery and rich decorations used for roofs and houses give clear evidence of a once prosperous time. A quarry was also discovered. One large pillar covered with many drill marks dating to the middle Anuradhapura period before the 5th century AD, lies in front of the the huge rock close to the ocean. This is quite notable, as very few quarries have been documented.
Coming Back to Ambalantota town we turned left and came to see the Theraputtabaya dagaba
Theraputthabhaya dagaba:
At the time of King Kavanthissa a man named Abhaya had a son and was called “putthabhaya” meaning son of Abhaya. Later Abhaya became a monk (monks are known as “Thera” in Pali) and his son was called “Theraputthabhaya”. Young Theraputthabhaya was strong and vigorous. His fame was heard by the King and was admitted to the service.He was a;so one pt the ten warriors of King Detugamun’s army.
Travelling back again we passed the Walawe Bridge near Ambalantota town and came to Girihandu Viharaya
Giri Handu Viharaya
Dagaba was built by King Kawantissa in 2nd century BC inserting sacred hair given by the Lord Buddha to his first lay- followers, Thapassu and Bhalluka.same with the Girihandy seya in the eastern province too.
A ruined statue of Avalokitheshwara Buddha in 7th Century BC was discovered among the ruins. Further ruins of a Viharaya, Damma Hall and abode of monks are visible at this sacred place
Turning at Nonagama junction to head back to Colombo we stopped at Ramba Viharaya Complex
Ramba Viharaya Complex
This ancient place is located on the bank of the Walawe Ganga, in the village of Udarata on the Nonagama-Ratnapura Road. It is about 12.8 km from Ambalantota.
Maha Nagakula was the capital of ancient Sri Lanka in the 11th century AD. The Ramba Viharaya had been the temple of the Maha Nagakula City where a large number of artifacts have been found during excavations.
The Ramba Viharaya was the Royal Temple of the day. It was also the hide-out for King Vijayabahu I who arrived there in the year 1055, while he planned his war against the Cholas for 15 years. Sri Lanka was under the Chola rule for a period of 53 year Vijayabahu had been canvassing among anti-Ramanna Desas such as Burma, Kalinga and Pandyan countries, to form an alliance against the Cholas.
He effected three attacks to surround Polonnaruwa and defeated the Cholas. His son Wickramabahu continued to reign from there while Prince Parakramabahu continued with the tradition. These reasons have prompted historians and archaeologists to carry out their research into the area. They had found a large number of monuments scattered in a land area of 200 acres of dense jungle.
A very strange Buddha image has been found excavations which had been made out of the white sand stone.
The Ramba Vihara had become the most important religious and academic centre of Ruhuna between the 10th and 12th centuries. Scholars of the time such as Rev. Piyadassi Thera and Rev. Mahanagasena Thera had lived here and in other temples around it.
There had been an advanced civilization in the area. A large number of artifacts which had been found following research explorations conducted by scholars during the dry season had proved this fact. The venue itself is unique as there had been an ancient international harbour at Godawaya (there is evidence to support this fact).
Traders had been in the habit of travelling from China to the Arab Seas and Sri Lanka had served as an ideal venue for entrepot trading (imports are re-exported) for which customs duties were collected.
It is under the Ramba (banana) trees that Samanera priests had been learning their religion. Due to this reason, the Ramba Vihara had also been referred to as Kehelgamuwa. During this period in the 11th century, ships had been arriving from Ramanna Deshaya (lower Burma) at the southern parts such as Godawaya.
This area had been economically flourishing during the 15th century AD. During the Portuguese and Dutch periods, a chief priest by the name of Maha Kappinna, had lived there.
Though it had been a role model for a monastery at Maha Nagakula during the 11th and 12th centuries, now it is somewhat deserted.
Having Covered about 650 Km we retirned to Colombo via embilipitiya ratnapura awissawella road.
All information from Maha Sancharakaya TV program and internet.
The END